The Repti-Glo 5.0 should be OK for the time being... some kind of UV output will be better than nothing. It sounds like you picked up a compact coil bulb though, which have historically been sketchy over periods of time in their outputs (there was a section about them in the links we've provided). It will be fine for now, but look into other sources online or at other pet stores whenever you have time for a more stable source. I know that availability at local stores can vary - but the good news is you now have some kind of UV source for the anole for the time being. Lamp fixtures can be purchased at pet stores or home improvement style stores for fairly cheap - I would pick one up asap in order to run both the heat source and UV source. We still have an inkling that this could be a respiratoy infection due to the way this animal is behaving. If caught early, this can often be reversed with husbandry changes like the ones you are making. Proper temperatures will be essential to her recovery. Here is information on temperature directly from our caresheet, which can be accessed here: http://reptileboards.com/threads/anole-care-guide.65275/ "The temperature directly below your lamp should be around 90°F, with an ambient temperature of about 75-80°F. At night, temperatures may be dropped to around 65-70°F. If you find the night time temperature is dropping lower than 65°, an under tank heater or ceramic heat emitter may be necessary for overnight use. In order to get accurate temperature readings, make sure you are using digital thermometers with probes or temp guns as opposed to stick on, mercury, or gauge type thermometers." Once you get both lights running and the temperatures worked out you may hopefully notice some improvement. However, I am unsure how long she has been fighting any disease if she is ill, and this will be the ultimate deciding factor in her well-being. If does has an RI that has established itself she may require veterinarian attention for antibiotics. You might want to keep a vet in mind in case she does require additional attention or for the future... to find an herp vet try this site first: http://herpvetconnection.com
She actually seems to be doing better. She is much more active and she may have eaten a cricket but I don't know. She try's to escape when I touch her, so I guess that's a good thing, right? About after 5-10 minutes of the UVB light being on she turns green. Are there any home remedies at all for RI infections, but I don't know if she has one. The lack of UVA light could have caused her no appetite, right? Some of her ribs are poking out a little, is that normal or not? And I'm guessing I'll see some permanent changes in behavior within several weeks or a couple months. Thanks!
She is actually a he! His dewlap just came out? What does that mean? I also have both lights going now!
Hello again. It's actually a common misconception that only male anoles have a dewlap. In truth, both males and females have dewlaps. Gender cannot be determined by the displaying of the dewlap. Lack of UVB almost certainly contributed to her loss of appetite, but the low temperatures are also a major factor as well. Please check out the care guide Jeff linked to. As he mentioned, your anole should have a basking spot of around 90F. If your anole cannot get this warm, she will not be able to digest properly, and will understandably be unwilling to eat. If your anole has an RI, which I suspect is the case, raising the temperatures may remedy the problem. However, if it does not clear up after the setup is corrected, she will need to see a vet. What are your temperatures now that the heat lamp is running throughout the day?
Actually I thought she was overheating so I cut the heat light off. Even if she gapes should I keep the light on?
It depends on the temperatures. What are your temperatures with the heat lamp on? If it's too hot, move the bulb higher up/away from the tank. It's too cold to leave it off altogether though. I'd also advise putting your UVB light much closer to the cage. Your anole needs to be able to get within 6-10" of that bulb. I would also look into ordering a more reliable UVB bulb when you get the chance. Once again, check out our UVB article for slightly more in depth explanations: http://www.reptileboards.com/threads/uvb-basics.64396/
The little pink and white lamp right above the tank has the UVB in it, not the silver. The silver is for the heat.
It isn't necessarily that we don't trust your judgement or measurements, but the picture makes it difficult to perceive that the lights are close enough to the animal to be within the minimum distance requirement for UV output and to attain the proper temperature of 90 degrees on the surface of the basking structure while still maintaining a thermal gradiant (distant warm and cool ends of the cage so that the cold-blooded reptile may choose where to go to regulate temperature). Obviously, we cannot be there to measure these distances and temperatures ourselves so we are entrusting you with this task. From experience in using a plethora of of different kinds of lighting, I know of very few bulbs that can produce the proper temperatures in an enclosure when placed that high from the top of the cage and at such an angle. Again - I hope you do not take offense to this. I'm not trying to make any accusations here but would encourage you to double-check temperatures and make sure that the reptile can get within 6-10 inches of that particular UV bulb. If you do find yourself having difficulty with using both lamps, I have a suggestion: Because the enclosure is small and will not allow for a lot of lamp space on top, you may consider laying the UV producing light (pink fixture) immediately on top of the screen cage on one side of the enclosure, and the heat lamp on the other side. Because flourescent bulbs like the ReptiGlos and ReptiSuns do not produce heat (or very minute amounts) it is safe to put them on the cool side of the enclosure and it shouldn't alter the temperature gradiant. The heat lamp can then be placed on the opposite side and can make the "warm" end and basking area of the cage. Monitor the temps and adjust bulb wattage accordingly so that you can get a basking spot at around 90 degrees F and other temperatures in the enclosure close to what we recommended in previous posts. If you opt for this setup, you will need two basking structures: One for the basking place below the heat bulb and one for the UVB producing bulb. Diurnal lizards do have the capacity to "see" into the UV spectrum unlike humans. The anole is engineered to know about its need for UVB rays in order to synthesize calcium and will therefore bask under that lamp as needed for UV. He will simply go back and forth between heat and UV as he chooses in order to maintain proper temperatures and UV uptake. It is indeed better to have them both in one general area so that the lizard may simply sit in one place and soak up both heat and UV, but in this particular situation it may be more acceptable to use the lights on opposite ends to meet all needs. And finally - in the near future you might consider upgrading tank size and investing in a more stable long "tube" style flourescent UVB producing bulb. As we discussed, the coil lamp will be OK for the time being, but studies have shown decay rates in as little as a couple of weeks. So be in the market shopping around for a new bulb and fixture. A larger enclosure will be more comfortable for the animal as it ages and make for a more permanent home, and will make it easier for you with controlling temperature, cage decor, and other factors of husbandry. But we'll focus on this more over the next couple of weeks and focus on the anole's current state of health and behavior before making any such changes.
The cut on her/his face was "wet" like and looked gooey for a couple weeks, but today it has formed a scab.
I think I may have found the reason for the gaping; she has a scab on top of one of her nostrils and she is opening her mouth to breathe a little better. Could this be possible?
http://www.repticzone.com/forums/Anoles/messages/942387.html Please read this, especially post # 944111. I think she has this. What should I do?
Try http://herpvetconnection.com to find a reputable herp vet in your area. It may be worthwhile looking into this in case a respiratory infection is present as well. In addition to husbandry changes for the benefit of the anole's well-weing, vet assistance may be necessary. Its difficultt o say without actually seeing the animal in person so this will ultimately be up for your judgement. Babyfood will not fix any problems; the only way the anole will be able to fight off any illness or infection is with proper husbandry. And sometimes even modifications to care are not enough if an infection or disease has taken hold... if you have made ALL of the necessary changes we have recommended in this thread your anole will have the best chance possible of survival and fighting anyhting off on its own. If the anole continues to behave abnormally or experiences further distress, then a combination of proper care and vet attention will be needed.
I know baby food won't change anything, but I want her to eat something soft. The baby food won't hurt her, right? I can get a picture of her mouth if you want to see the suspected mouth rot. Should I put anything on her cut, like neosporin or the such? Thanks so much!
You can put some diluted betadine or chlorhexidine (Novlasan) on the wound. Due to the location, I would be concerned about possible ingestion of the antiseptic so avoid any creams like neosprin and be sure to dab up excess and apply cautiously.
