getting a ball python help

Discussion in 'Ball Pythons' started by abcornsnake12, Feb 14, 2004.

  1. abcornsnake12

    abcornsnake12 Embryo

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    am think of puchering a ball and i ould like 2 no everthin about them from people who have them or kno alo about them
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. Carrie

    Carrie Embryo

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    The books you can get will tell you alot of what you need to know. The one thing never mentioned though is that Royals/Balls prefer small spaces, my 8 month old is in a large Geo flat. Small space makes them feel safe, so they are more likely to feed.
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. Demonic_Rage

    Demonic_Rage Embryo

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    Yes I do agree with Carrie but I have my ball pythons in large cages and they seem to do fine as long as you provide a temp from around 80 to 85 degrees. If its a larger cage put a few hide in with them one on the hot side and one on the cool side. That way they have chocie on where they can hide now they do like small hide that they can tightly squeze into. Thats my advise to you and read a few caresheets and the Ball python Manual is the best ten bucks you can spend when it comes to these little guys.
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. abcornsnake12

    abcornsnake12 Embryo

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    ok thanks guys
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. ball_python_crazy

    ball_python_crazy Embryo

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    Check for mites and if they stay in a ball when you pick them up they are to timid. and ask the shop owner or person you are buying it of ask to see him feed because ball/royal pythons are known to be poor eaters and if he/she meets the requirment then you have a good ball/royal python.
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. ball_python_crazy

    ball_python_crazy Embryo

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    Check for mites and if they stay in a ball when you pick them up they are to timid. and ask the shop owner or person you are buying it of ask to see him feed because ball/royal pythons are known to be poor eaters and if he/she meets the requirment then you have a good ball/royal python.
     
  12. sapphire_moon

    sapphire_moon Embryo

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    A ball pythons main line of defense is curling up in a ball, so if you pick up a BP and it curls up into a ball it does not mean it has mites.
    It does not matter if you meet the requirements for BP's. They will go off food even if their conditions are perfect.

    when you get your BP have it's cage set up.

    Use "hospital" like conditions. So.......

    proper heating
    white paper towel or newspaper,
    2 hides, one on cool side one on warm side,
    water bowl large enough for it to soak in.

    a small cage is not necessary. An adult BP SHOULD have a cage atleast half it's length. You have to take into consideration that the water bowl and hides are taking up floor space as well. I would say something the length of a 40 gal breeder is MINIMUM space for an adult.

    I have both my bp's in 4ft long IRIS containers (like rubbermaids).

    Mites are little black things crawling around on your snake.
    Find a vet and get a fecal to take to them, it is ALWAYS BEST to buy off a breeder. You have no clue where pet shops get their snakes, and if you ask they usually lie.

    The ball python manual hasn't been updated in years. So it is pretty useless (atleast the one I am talking about).

    Keep the snake in the "hospital" tank for atleast 2 months, Or until a clean bill of health comes from the vet.

    LEAVE IT ALONE for 2 weeks! Don't handle it AT ALL unless you take it out to clean the cage, even then only transfer it to a holding tub. Do not stick your hands in there for anything unless to clean the cage or give fresh water. The more you leave it alone the faster it will acclimate.

    I PERSONALLY do not attempt to handle my new snakes until they have fed successfully 4 times in a row (week after week) then I keep it quick as to not stress them, starting with a few 5 minute handling sessions 2 or 3 times a day.

    Do not handle the snake for 2-3 days after it eats.
     

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