Hi everyone! Right, I have a Horsefield, He is six years old and thriving! And I've just got a two year old female Herman. It's not that I'm a cheapskate but can they live together? i just think they'd have each other for company. What do you think? I've searched the web and haven't found much at all really. Also, does anyone use a mercury vapor bulb?
Tortoises are solitary animals for the most part, and housing a new animal of any species with an already established one is putting them both at risk of cross contamination of disease. Solitary species can also become easily stressed when new occupants are added. Definitely house different species separately.
Thanks. We spent last nigth separating the tank. I sterilised it and separated it with a huge lump of wood. The UV lamp is fixed to the top of the wood so they get half each. One has a heat mat for warmth and the other a lamp. Hope to get them both the same this week. Lordie! They've just been soaked in warm water and are now eating grated carrot, grated cucumber and washed dandelion leaves and flowers sprinkled in ground down cuttle fish bone! what a life eh? LOL One more question, do they need to hibernate? I really really don't want them to as i'd miss them and be scared they'd die.
They don't have to hibernate at all. Only when breeding does hibernation or brumation become necessary for most types of reptiles. Keeping their environment consistent helps prevent it. But if they start to slow down and eat less, are less active, and hide more, then don't panic. Keep them warm, keep providing food and water, and just watch them closely. They may only "sleep" for a few days at a time, if anything at all. As long as the temp stays up then they most likely will not be affected in any way.
Oh thanks, you're a wealth of knowledge! My new little Herman is doing really well! And for a two year old she eats more than the Horsefield who's six! Do I have to becareful how much the baby eats? She's got an appetite of a pig! LOL
Some people claim that torts in captivity can overeat, but I've never seen one overweight. One rule of thumb would be to give her a dish of food, say one cup (I'm not sure exactly since I don't know her size exactly), and if she eats that within an hour or so, give her a little more. It's kind of like the fish rule of "give them only what they'l eat in five minutes". Scheduled feedings are always better than always having food available, except for browse grasses like with Sulcatas which will add only neglible amounts of weight, so it's hard for them to overeat. Basically, their diets have so little fat and protein, that allowing them a reasonable amount of food will prevent them from becoming overweight. I hope that made sense...it's late and I'm not sure I understand it! lol
Quick question about food. I was given the recommendation by a reliable source that squash was ok to feed Russians, but then someone said the other day it was poisonous and had no nutritional value. I know it is not poisonous because I have been feeding it to mine for over a year and no one has died, but what about the nutritional content?
I think it's fine if used as an ocassional treat. It's not that nutritious but as far as I know it's not harmful. (If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me...please) Diced up and sprinkled on their salad once a week or so, shouldn't be a problem. I kind of lump it into the fruit category where yes, you can offer it, but it's low in nutrition and can be problematic diet-wise if given in too large of quantities too often.
Will it cause parasites? I give it to mine about 3 or 4 times a month depending on the availablity at the grocery store. It is definitely not a staple in their diet. I would think that if it were harmful, something would have happened to them by now because i have been giving it to them for a year or so. The vet said it was ok as a treat too. Guess it's one of those gray areas!
Fruits and veggies in a grocery store are usually pretty well safe from parasites. Always washing the food before offering should cut the chance of infection even more. But squash in and of itself wouldn't increase your tort's risk of infection anymore than any other food item. Salad is kind of my catch-all term for mixed greens and grasses (depending on the animal). For Hermann's it would be leafy greens like dandelion and clover. Chelonia.org suggests endive which is readily available in most grocers.
the best food to feed tortoises is weeds. i go picking mine every night and i grow my own. heat mats can burn tortoises, it burnt mine. in the wild tortoises dont get heat from underneath they get it from the top. Unless on a hot rock that as been warmed up from the sum which soon goes cold. i wouldnt use heat mats at all. i have herd you can use it for red foots under wet substrate for humidity (red foots need humidity). hibernation is a must if you want your tortoise to live a long life. i have experence in this as i didnt hibernate mine for 5 years and the first time i did she thrived she was so happy, she was a different tortoise. in the wild hatchlings hiberate if only a few months old like i always say think wildand whats natural - its never wrong
Oh god I don't want to hibernate them at all. Firstly cos I don't feel able enough to do it, secondly cos I'd really miss them. How long do they live for? I have a Horsefield and a Herman and I thought they'd live for years and years.
Here are some excellent articles on brumation in tortoises that should help you decide whether you want to allow your torts to hibernate or if you would rather over-winter them. The final decision is up to you. Two trains of thought on this one. If your torts are under 3-5 yrs of age though, I'd definitely say no to hibernation since they are so young and sensitive to environmental changes. http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/hibernationpaula.htm http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/hibernation_journey.htm http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/Biological_clocks.htm
I personally do not want to hibernate mine yet, and I am not sure if I ever will. I have a friend who has 3 Russians and has never hibernated any of them and the oldest is 31 years old. Others swear that you should hibernate them, especially if you want to breed them. It's up to what you feel comfortable with.
I agree. Brumation (or at least a cooling period) is essential for proper breeding behaviors and the environmental cues are important as well, biologically....but I'm really on the fence about it when it comes to regular brumation when not breeding. There's no real evidence that says not allowing torts to brumate will lead to kidney failure, etc....but at the same time, it's a natural occurence, so it shouldn't harm them if they are healthy and old enough and montired closely.
This forum is just a wealth of knowledge. I really want to thankyou all so much for your help and advice. Not many people keep tortoises these days and I've had to rely on the internet to keep me going! 31 years old? wow, how big are they? And that brings me to my next question. How big do Hermans and Horsefields grown? and where do you measure from? underneath? from head to tail?
Herman's get about 8-10 inches from what I've read. Horsfield's about 8 inches. Measure the top of the shell (carapace), down the middle from head to tail. Shell length only, don't include the head itself or the tail.
