hey i just got a mississippi map turtle form my local rep store. never had a turtle befor so dont really no how to care for it. it was a sper of the moment think buying it normaly i do a lot of research into the reptiles i am going to buy befor i purches them. anyway my question is does anyony have a good care sheet on this type of turtle. stating what size viv is needed what food they eat and when they eat it. also how much UV light is needed how long should it be on for cage temps and whatever else is needed. thanks a load for reading and helping me on this subject. and sorry to be a pain.
Here's a caresheet for a Red Eared Slider, it's basically the same care and housing: Care and Husbandry of Red-Eared Sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans) Contributed by Angie Stidham, Capital University Natural History One of the most common aquatic turtles in the pet trade, the Red-Eared Slider (RES) can be found throughout the Midwestern United States from West Virginia to New Mexico with some isolated colonies in Maryland and Ohio. The Red-Eared Slider has also been found in regions further north into Canada. Most occurrences outside of their natural Midwestern U.S. range are due to the release of pet turtles unwanted by their owners. Red-Eared Sliders prefer muddy, calm waters in areas with a high density of vegetation and bask on logs or other objects protruding from the water for long periods of time throughout the day. They will occasionally bask on banks, but will stay very close to the water's edge. Unique to the Red-Eared Slider is its namesake head stripe. Located directly behind the eye, there is a red to reddish-orange stripe on either side of the head. In some cases, this stripe may be yellow, but this coloration is rare. In young turtles, the carapace (top half of shell) has an elaborate pattern on each scute of alternating green, black, and yellow elongated circles or stripes. The plastron (bottom half of shell; "stomach") is usually highly marked with dark, eye-shaped spots. As the turtle ages, these patterns may become more difficult to see due to the development of dark pigment (melanism). The shell in advanced cases, may appear to be one uniform color, almost appearing black. The legs, head, and tail may also darken with age. Males are generally darker than females and more likely to show signs of melanism. The subspecies Trachemys s. trootsi (Cumberland Slider) appears very similar to the Red-Eared Slider except for a narrower yellow stripe behind the eye and fewer but wider stripes on legs, head, and tail. Adult sliders can reach an average shell length of 8-10 inches. Males tend to be smaller, generally 5-7 inches, while females can occasionally reach up to 12 inches in shell length. Red-Eared Sliders do not reach sexual maturity until 3-5 years of age, with males generally reaching sexual maturity before females. Species is oviparous, laying 3-4 clutches of eggs per year. Each clutch is approximately 20-25 eggs, but smaller clutches are not uncommon, especially in first-time and older females. Eggs are generally laid anywhere from 3-6 weeks after mating but sperm can be retained within the female for several months. Egg shells are not as calcified as bird eggs and more easily damaged. Clutches laid late in the year can overwinter in the nest safely and hatch in the spring. The incubation period is around 60-75 days when eggs are in the optimal temperature range of 24-31 degrees Celsius (78.8-87.8 degrees Fahrenheit). Temperature of the nest has a direct effect on the sex determination of the offspring. Warmer temperatures usually result in a larger number of females, whereas cooler temperatures result in mostly male offspring. Species is omnivorous it's entire life although most hatchlings will favor animal protein over plant matter. Toes on all four feet are clawed. The claws on the front feet of the male are longer than those of the female. During mating, the male will "fan" his claws in front of the female's face prior to copulation. Recommended Enclosures Red-Eared Sliders require a large amount of space for swimming and ample dry land for basking during the day. The key to proper housing is planning. Before bringing your turtle home, decide on what size of tank you will need and purchase all equipment to ensure that the setup is complete, safe, and appropriate. An average pet store aquarium can be used for most any aquatic turtle granted the tank is large enough for the specific turtle's size. Plastic storage containers (such as Rubbermaids and Sterilite containers) can also be used for turtles but care must be taken when choosing to make sure the sides are sturdy enough to hold deeper water without the sides bulging or buckling. Minimum Enclosure Size Recommendations* Turtle Length No. Gallons Tank Dimensions Water Depth 1-3" 15-20 High 24x12x16 4-6" 3-5" 25-29 30x12x18 6-8" 5-8" 37-55 48x13x20 8-10" +8" 70 or Larger 48x18x20 10"+ *Note: The dimensions above are guidelines only and represent the minimum size of enclosure that would be acceptable for housing a Red-Eared Slider or other related aquatic turtles. It is entirely possible to house a hatchling turtle in a large tank, granted the water level is adjusted to suit the needs of a smaller turtle. Turtles larger than 8 inches should be housed in at least a 70 gallon breeder tank. Breeder tanks are wider than most traditional fish tanks allowing for more swimming space both vertically and horizontally. RES are excellent climbers so a secure escape-proof lid is required for the top of any tank. There should also be several inches of space between the top of the tank and the highest point within the tank (i.e. the basking area) to prevent water from splashing up onto the lighting fixtures and to protect basking turtles from coming into close contact with heating implements/lights. It is recommended that substrate such as aquarium gravel be avoided. The small pieces are easily ingested and could potentially lead to impactions. Also, because of the amount of waste generated by RES, siphoning gravel can become a weekly challenge. Larger rocks and river rock that is too large to be swallowed can be used to make the setting more natural, but take into account the amount of swimming space decorations may take up and plan the enclosure size appropriately. Use any painted stones with caution as the paint may flake off with time and stick to the turtle or be ingested unintentionally, this includes all painted aquarium decorations. Live plants such as duckweed, anacharis, and water hyacinths can be used in a turtle enclosure but will most likely be eaten, chewed on, or trampled by turtles. Artificial plants are both attractive and functional in a RES enclosure. Floating plants such as water lilies/lily pads look nice, but also afford the turtle security by providing cover. Other artificial underwater plants also provide cover but care should be taken to chose plants that do not pull apart easily as RES are notorious for attempting to eat anything resembling green foliage. Proper water filtration is essential to turtle keeping and can be a struggle. Aquatic turtles create large amounts of waste material and filter media will become saturated rather quickly. A canister filter is the most appropriate choice. It can be almost entirely submerged and most brands are large enough and powerful enough to filter and cycle water quickly and in larger quantities than most hanging filters. Make sure to select a filter that is marketed for the size of tank you wish to use it in. A filter that is manufactured for a 20 gallon tank will not be sufficient for a 70 gallon and you will end up with cloudy, dirty water within a week. The enclosure should be set up and allowed to cycle for at least one week prior to introducing the turtle. Afterwards, a 20% water change should be done bi-weekly, depending on the condition of the water, and a 40-50% water change done monthly. Proper filtration will help prevent weekly water changes and cleanings. Filter media can be rinsed monthly (or bi-weekly if desired) in tank water removed from the enclosure and changed every other month. A complete tear down and cleaning of all enclosure components should be done 3-4 times per year. To disinfect tank decorations, soak items in 10% bleach solution for one hour, and then rinse in the sink thoroughly and soak for 2-3 hours in plain water to help rinse out any residual chlorine. If items have a bleach smell to them after rinsing, allow to soak in plain water for another hour or until smell has dissipated. Lighting and Heating RES can be housed under a 12/12 lighting cycle providing 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of dark each day. A UVA/UVB bulb is essential for proper calcium utilization. UV bulbs are available in fluorescent bulbs that can be used in a standard aquarium light hood (provided that the plastic or glass shield is removed to prevent filtering out of ultraviolet light) or as incandescent bulbs which can be used in standard dome heating lamps. Bulbs that are labeled "broad spectrum" do not necessarily emit UVB. Make certain that the bulb you choose emits both UVA and UVB wavelengths. Since most UV bulbs provide little in the way of heating, a secondary lighting source is required above the basking area. Many different types of bulbs can be used to accomplish this. Pet stores carry a variety of daylight and heat lights. When deciding on a bulb to use, take into consideration the allowed wattage of the lamp, and the desired temperature the lamp must allow the basking area to reach, as well as the turtle's proximity to the bulb. Smaller bulbs will not heat a large tank efficiently. All lamps should be screened or at least 8-10 inches above the basking area. This will prevent the turtle from being burned by the lamp either directly or indirectly and will provide some air flow between the basking area and the lamp, preventing the build up of too much direct heat. The desired air temperature of the basking area is approximately 85 degrees Fahrenheit. A few degrees higher is also acceptable, but temperatures above 90 degrees should be avoided. The basking light should turn off every night. Air temperature outside of the basking area should stay around or above 80 degrees. Night air temperatures should not drop below 75 degrees. As a semi-aquatic species, RES require temperature regulation in the water as well. A standard aquarium heater is sufficient, provided that the turtle cannot lay or climb on it, and therefore unable to receive burns from the unit. Most heaters are thermostatic and turn themselves off and on according to the water temperature. When setting up a heater for the first time, especially on units that do not have temperatures written on dials, turn the dial until the heater turns on, and monitor the temperature of the water. If the heater shuts off prior to the water reaching the desired temperature, turn the dial until it turns itself back on. Once the water reaches the proper temperature, turn the dial slightly down, just until the heater turns off. This should set the heater to the appropriate temperature and regulate the water automatically. When monitoring water temperature, use a standard mercury or mercury substitute aquarium thermometer or digital thermometer. Do not use the stick-on temperature strips, as they do not read reliably. Water temperature should be approximately 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Feeding Red-Eared Sliders are omnivorous, eating both plant material and animal protein, mostly in the form of insects. Hatchlings and juvenile turtles tend to prefer higher protein diets but still require plants for a significant portion of their diet. RES should be fed any protein sources, such as insects, only every other day and in regulated quantities. The rule of thumb for how much should be fed at one feeding is as follows: only feed as much as could fit into their head if it were hollow. So, if your turtles head measures about 1cm long x 1cm wide x 1cm tall, then you would only offer an amount of food equal to 1 cubic centimeter, or about the size of a sugar cube. When deciding on the size of insect to offer, crickets should be no longer than the width of the turtle's head and mealworms/superworms should be no longer than twice the width of the turtle's head. There are a variety of commercial diets on the market for aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles. While these products make great supplemental food items for a RES diet, they should not be fed daily as they are almost all too high in protein. When using these products, offer no more than 1/2-1 stick or 2-4 pellets (depending on the brand) once every 2-3 days. Trout worms and nightcrawlers can also be offered on occasion in place of crickets. The same rulels apply to their length as do mealworms. Nightcrawlers may have to cut up to be offered since they are much larger than trout worms. Frozen foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp cubes are also acceptable protein sources. These items can be floated partially frozen in the water or completely thawed in a cup of tank water and poured into the tank. Feeder fish such as rosies and guppies can also be offered. Older turtles can be allowed to catch live fish. Fish can be fed one at a time or 6-8 can be placed in the turtle enclosure to "live" until they are caught. If doing this and the turtle is catching the fish successfully, decrease other protein sources slightly by not offering troutworms or bloodworms, or by decreasing the number of crickets offered for that week. Feeding live fish is a good form of enrichment and allows turtles to use their natural hunting skills. Young turtles can be fed fish also, but the fish may have to be pre-killed since hatchlings may be unable to catch them efficiently. When choosing the size of the fish to offer, follow the same size guidelines for mealworms regarding length. It is recommended that goldfish be avoided as they have higher levels of fats and diseases are more common. When buying fish, never buy from tanks that are dirty, contain several dead fish, or have any fish in them that show any signs of disease. Leafy greens, vegetables, and fruits are very important staples of a RES diet at any age. Leafy greens such as mustard, dandelion, and turnip greens should be staples in the diet. Other plants such as the aquatic plants anacharis, elodea, and duckweed can also be offered. Planting them in the tank however, may be a fruitless venture as they may be eaten or destroyed quickly. Commercially packaged salad greens labeled "spring mix" or "field greens" can also be used as these contain dandelion, arugula, and other acceptable greens and lettuces. Greens can be offered daily and in the amount that the turtle will eat in 10-15 minutes. Fruits like apple, banana, pear, strawberry, papaya, mango, and kiwi can be offered a couple of times a week and should be diced into pieces that are small enough to be eaten whole or easily bitten in half. Other fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe, blackberries, and raspberries can be used sparingly. Vegetables like zucchini, cucumber, and yellow squash can be offered once or twice a week when diced. Fruits and vegetables should only be offered in small amounts at each feeding, making up only 10% of the non-animal protein diet. Determining feeding schedule and food item rotation can be confusing, especially for new owners. Below are examples of an acceptable weekly diet for a sub-adult RES (head size 3/4"): Example #1 Monday: 1-2 small crickets (1/2”), 1/2 stick of commercial turtle diet, greens. Tuesday: Greens and fruit. Wednesday: Frozen/thawed bloodworms, 1/2 stick of commercial turtle diet, greens. Thursday: Greens and fruit. Friday: 2 trout worms, greens, and 1 mealworm. Example #2 Monday: 1-2 small crickets (1/2”), 1/2 stick of commercial turtle diet, greens such as dandelion, mustard, or collard. Wednesday: Frozen/thawed bloodworms, 1/2 stick of commercial turtle diet, greens. Friday: Add 6 feeder guppies to tank, fruit. Saturday: Greens and fruit. It would be perfectly acceptable to not feed over the weekend using this diet. Greens could be offered over the weekend. If your turtle is not a huge eater, then you could feed only every other day and not offer greens on the "in-between" days. The above diets are only examples. You can vary the days you offer certain protein items and do not have to offer every source of animal protein listed in this caresheet. Variety, however, is key to providing a healthy diet to captive RES so it is a good idea to offer one or two sources consistently, such as crickets and commercial diets, and then alternating between the other insects, worms, and frozen foods.
I have some things to point at on that caresheet (not trying to be nast ) The rule of thumb is that you should feed your turtle enoough pellets to fill their head if it were hollow every other day. Only offer Fruit as a treat once a month. Greens are great though. And a mealworm a week is ok, but not a lot, since they aren't very nutricious. Have some greens in there at all time, they'll munch on those and its good for them. Heres a list of good foods and bad foods: Variety is the key to a healthy turtle! For turtles under 1 year old, feed pellets daily, as much as would fit in their head if it were hollow (not including the neck) and veggies every day (if they refuse, don't stop offering it) For turtles one year and older, feed every other day at most (amount of food will increase with size of head), with veggies every day. VEGETABLES **all rinsed thoroughly** Romaine Lettuce Mustard leaves Leaves of Radish Collard Greens Tomatoes (must be considered a rarity. too acidic to be a regular staple) Carrot Turnip Sweet Potato (cooked - boiled/ steamed/baked) Peas (occasionally - once a month max) Pumpkin Squashes FRUITS **no more than once a month** Papaya Mango Watermelon Cantaloupe/Common Melon Grapes (remove skin so its easier for them to pick at ) Apple Pear Strawberry Figs Banana WATER PLANTS **rinsed thoroughly** Anacharis Water Lily Duckweed Water Hyacinth Hornwort LIVE PREY Feeder Fish (guppies, rosey red minnows) mealworms (no more than once a week as they're very high in protein) mosquito larvae crickets (preferably gutloaded) cockroaches apple snails or other water snails Getting Calcium cuttlebone (found in any pet store in the bird section - peel off the hard backing first, as they can't digest it) Calcium Dusting (you can crush cuttlebone for this) Calcium blocks Getting Vitamin A (Great for eyes ..especially if they are puffy) green leafy vegetables carrot squash cod liver oil Young RES tend to be more carniverous (eating mostly insects/fish/pellets). Don't let that stop you from offering greens because they'll take to it eventually. Stay away from goldfish (very fatty, really no nutritional value to your turt). Always offer your RES a variety of different foods. Once they get stuck on one type of food, it's difficult to get them to eat anything else! ---------------------------------------------------------- DO NOT FEED THESE Iceburg lettuce Celery They provide very little useful nutrition or fiber. They are fillers, a way to add variety but not nutrition. Spinach Chard Beets Rhubarb Oxalic acid blocks the absorption of calcium. These foods cause the turtle to become calcium deficient even if a good source of calcium is provided which can result in soft shell or MBD (metabolic bone disease) which is fatal. Beans Mushrooms Not much nutritional value, and can cause gout. Raw meat Frozen fish Raw chicken Causes obesity, pyramiding, kidney problems -------------------------------------------------------- And the rule of thumb for aquarium size is every 10 gallons for every 1" of turtle I hope i was of some help
whow cheers for all of that info its been a grate help ill start work tommrow at modding the new VIV for the little fella ill be shure to keep away from the bad foods. most the foods they eat i have anyway due to keeping other reps such as a skink cant wait to see this one grow up...
they get BIG, i suggest you go ahead and grab a 150 gallon stock tank. That will set him (or her, females get 3in bigger) for life. I recommend a fluval 404 to go with any tank, they are canister filters, and will work in any tank (besides 10 gallon, that would be crazy )
btw, 150 gallon stock tanks run for about $130-$150 depending on where you live. Heres a link for the stock tank pages Click here, and enter your zip code at the top If you can affor $400 for a filter, go for an Eheim thermal, it has the filter AND heater built in. If not, look for a pool heater, or some sort of heater, you'll figure something out
Commercial diets have waaaaaayyyy too much protein to be fed that much every other day and certainly no daily. And a little fruit a few times a week is hardly dangerous. I'm not talking about more than 10% of their diet, here.
A mississippi is going to stay relatively small compared to a RES. A 150 stock tank is alittle overboard right now.
I agree. Maps don't get as big as RES. An adult Map could comfortably live in a 70 gallon breeder (which is wider than a regular tank). I'm not saying a 150 would be bad, an adult would love it, but it's not necessary, especially for a hatchling.
at the moment he is in a 20gallon i think. i have a 3ft tank by 1ft and its 1.5ft high dont no how many gallons that is im british lol. but anyways the bigger tank is the one im planning to keep him in unless he gets to big.... then im get something bigger ill keep that size rule in mind though.
well, you could go with the 100 gallon stock tank i know those are only like...$60 or $100, one of those
cool any good websites that stock them in the UK? because i dont like ijmporting things becaus eif anything goes wrong means sending it back a long way and i dont like doing that.
Rubbermaid makes really sturdy stock tank that are great for turtles. I'm not sure if they sell them in the UK but I wouldn't be surprised if they did. Check with home improvement or farm supply stores. They'll be the most likely candidates to have stock tanks.
my home improvment stores don't carry them, but any farm store has them. I suggest your first check a farm store. Oh, and you might be able to find a 75 gallon in the paper, might be more appealing than a stock tank. But it's up to you!
Can't you just get a big rubbermaid storage bin instead? That's what I'm going to do for my RES turtles!
rubbermaid wont last them their whole lives, REs need 1 gallon for ever inch of shell. An adult male will need an 80 gallon tank, and an adult female will need a 120 gallon. a 50 gallon rubbermaid (biggest one maid) won't hold them forever.
