New Ball Python

Discussion in 'Ball Pythons' started by SarahAnita, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    Ok I am not going to lie I don't know much about ball pythons and I don't usually buy an animal without doing a lot of research but I trust the advice my friends (who work in a reptile store) give me and I was kind of "rescuing" this guy. Anyway they are sick of me asking them questions so I thought I would post here for some advice.
    He is an adult, about 4 years old(estimating) 4 feet long and quite large around for a male, with a big head. When they first got him in they thought he was a female. My tank is set up with aspen bedding with a under tank heater. My question/concern is his hot side is only reaching about 81.9 because it is winter and my apartment is poorly heated. Normally I would try and find a way to warm up the hot side a bit more, but the thing is he spends all of his time on the cool side. He's sleeping between the glass and his water dish all day long, then exploring at night.
    Is this normal? I don't think he's figured out how to get into his hide (which is in the middle partially on the heating pad) and I'm not sure if I should try and show him? I got him 3 days ago an don't want to stress him out, I also want to handle him pretty badly but don't know how long I should let him settle in. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    any time you bring home a new reptile, its best to have everything set up and once it is placed in the enclosure, dont handle, or otherwise mess with him/her for at least a week. this period of time is stressful because the snake will be on its guard and will need to explore and become familiar with its surroundings. its not uncommon for a normally friendly snake to be defensive and even strike because it has no idea what anything is untill it become comfortable. ball pythons by nature tend to be nocturnal and will find a spot it feels safe in. when its ready it will explore and learn its new home and where the hide, water, and other places are within the enclosure. ONLY go into the enclosure to spot clean and change water and make ur visits brief as to not disturb the snake. after a week attempt to slowly pick up the snake and dont be restrictive of its movements. hold it just enough to keep from falling, and to be safe keep your face away from his just incase. first times of handling should be around 5 to 10 minutes so the snake can become accustomed to being handled but not too much too fast.

    if the enclosure is near an exterior wall and its cold, place a piece of cardboard on the back and sides of the enclosure to better insulate and if its a tank with screen top , cover half of the screen top with plastic wrap or a towel to both insulate and better maintain humidity levels. the under tank heater is good, but suppliment that with a spot lamp for daytime heat and at night to keep ambient temp up use a red infrared spot bulb about 25% lower wattage than the daytime bulb. even tho its winter time and no doubt the snake knows it, make sure the bask temp is at least 88 degrees but no higher than 91. ambient temps should be between 83 and 86 degrees and the cool side shouldnt drop below 77 .

    keep humidity levels around 55 to 65% normally. when you notice the snake starting a shedd, boost the humidity up t0 75% to provide a better shed. you can even place the snak in a bin of warm, NOT HOT water to assist the shed as well. fill it with enough water that the snake can almost submerge its entire body but can easily raise its head above water. soak em for about 10-15 minutes once a day until the snake sheds.

    hydro hides are good for snakes to feel safe as well. use a short plastic tote big enough where the snake can just fit its body into , and make a hole to get in and out just big enough to get in. they like small spaces , and it makes them feel secure. Inside the box you can place damp paper towels or sphagnum moss (not dripping) just moistened and this to will improve the comfort of the snake

    Balls can be stubborn eaters but a trick i learned is pre-scenting. place the mouse/rat in a box with vent holes in it and place on top of the snakes tank for 45mins. you will notice the snake becoming active and begin "hunting" for what its smells. this stimulates its hunger drive in anticepation of a meal. they dont like having food just shoved in front of their face when its not expected. after 45mins , present the food (preferable pre-killed or at least stunned) to the snake about 6 inches in front of their face and if its works you will see your snake stike and coil more aggressively than you would have expected.
     
    StikyPaws312 likes this.
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    I can't put a heat lamp ontop because I have a large piece of plywood covering the top, both to keep humidity in and to keep my cat from faling through the mesh lid of the tank.
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    that my friend is something that your gunna have to shange because you deffinatly need to have heat from above. what kind of enclose do you have him in? glass tank? custom?
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    also id like to add that for the better comfort of the snake you should have 2 hides. the hydro hide should be on the coolside and another dry hide near the warm end of the tank. this makes it easy for the snake to not have to choose between warmth and security. that way it has both
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    I know people who breed ball pythons, over tank heat isn't necissary, I'm not worried about heating it if I need to i can make it warmer, my concern is, is his behaviour of sleeping on the cool side normal
     
  12. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    thats normal, to him its the safest place to be. 9 times outa 10 a snake will choose hiding over being warm if it it wants to be secure
     
  13. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    He isn't hiding though, he hasn't even gone in his hide once :S. he's just beside his water dish and the wall.
     
  14. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    yup......he moves around at night you said?
     
  15. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    I've had him 3 nights and 2/3 i saw him out moving around.
     
  16. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    ya he's good. just feeling things out
     
  17. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    Thanx a lot. I just wanted a second opinion, now back to the temperature thing, i have a space heater i can put a foot or so away from the tank to raise the temp a bit do you think i should?
     
  18. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    gotta be carful , if it gets knocked over, or gets to hot. other option is to put another heat pad on the side of the tank
     
  19. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    oh no there's no issue with the space heater being a problem, its one I use in the winter time all the time since like I said my apartment's heating sucks, I can set it really low. The heating pad I have on the tank takes up 50% of the bottom, no room for another.
     
  20. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    what i mean to say is get another smaller zoomed pad and mount it to the side of the glass if you can
     
  21. WingedWolf

    WingedWolf Member

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    Wait, are you recommending a heat lamp for a ball python? No one should use a heat lamp for a ball python. Heat lamps drive out humidity, and make it very difficult to keep at at 60%, where it needs to be at all times.

    Use an undertank heat pad that is controlled by a rheostat or thermostat. If the cool side is too cool, insulate the enclosure, raise the room temperature, or add a second heat pad or radiant heat panel.

    Ball pythons do better in plastic cages than in glass tanks--it is too difficult to adjust temperature and humidity in a glass tank, and it's harder to clean as well.
     
    BP36 likes this.
  22. BP36

    BP36 New Member

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    im saying that if a glass tank is used cover most of the top so that the heat and humidity is kept in. maybe not the best way to go but its worked in the past for me before i built the racks. you are right about the plastic enclosures. they make it convenient not having to spray 3 times a day
     
  23. WingedWolf

    WingedWolf Member

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    I agree, if you are using a glass tank, covering most of the top is the best way--you can't use a heat lamp if most of the top is covered, anyhow.
     
  24. SarahAnita

    SarahAnita New Member

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    I have a piece of plywood covering the entire top so my cat doesn't break through the mesh lid.
     

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