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Discussion in 'Iguanas' started by rayban, Jun 2, 2011.

  1. rayban

    rayban Embryo

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    Hey some questions for the hopefully more exp owners.

    I'm planning on purchasing a baby red iguana in the next week or so, and I'm looking for some suggestions on an enclosure. i realize they get very big and need lots of room (a main reason im getting an iguana. i like the idea of a bigger and more dynamic pet but dont want a dog.), so im going to go big right off the hop, instead of upgrading later. ive narrowed my options down to two choices, and I'd like some feedback

    - a "collapsable"? mesh enclosure. size wise its 100 gallons. this is sold at the store ill be purchasing from. i like this idea because its supposed to be easy to transport if i move, or other reasons.

    - build my own from scratch using wire mesh and plywood. this option gives me a touch more custom options, but is more time consuming and probally more work then im prepared for, since i don't do alot of carpentry although i am competant at it.

    what kind of supplies will i need to start off with? im pretty sure ill need a substrate of some kind (not sure what), a heating lamp, a UVB/UVA lamp water dish and some climbing / basking decorations... anything else? food wise im planning on just adding to our normal grocery run with bags of spinach and other veggies and maybe some fruit for treats. what about supplemental pellets or vitamins?

    otherwise, any suggestions on taming it and otherwise socializing it into the family? i have 2 young children age 5 and 2, who will be curious about it. pretty much a given to not let the 2yr old around, but my 5yr old is very good with animals so far, but this would be our first real pet aside from a pair of aquariums.

    any feedback and help is greatly apreciated!
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. Cammy

    Cammy ReptileBoards Addict

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    Hello, and welcome to the forum! I'll just jump right in on your questions.

    A 100 gallon would be fine for a hatchling, but you would have to upgrade in the relatively near future if that's what you go with. Keep in mind that a healthy adult iguana is anywhere from 3-6 feet long. A standard 100 gallon is barely that long, and lacks the height needed for a happy iggy. Also, be aware that a mesh cage is not a great choice for iggies. They don't hold heat or humidity well, and there is a risk of them getting their toes snagged in the mesh (especially since they have a habit of running and scratching along the walls of their cages). However, a glass aquarium of this size would be fine with at least three sides covered with a background to prevent snout rub. Again, this is for hatchlings only. You'll have to upgrade within 1-1.5 years as they become sub adults.

    A custom built enclosure is your best option if you don't plan on upgrading. A small (~3 feet) adult iggy's enclosure should be at least 6 feet long, 3 feet deep, and 6 feet tall. Obviously a larger individual should have a larger cage. That may sound excessive, but remember that these are very large, arboreal lizards. They need the space and height to live a happy, healthy life.

    A lot of people also let their iguanas free roam. I'm not a fan of letting them free roam all the time unless you have really modified your living spaces to accommodate their needs. This means iguana-proofing the rooms they will be in, setting up basking areas around the house, and making sure they are misted regularly. The advantage to allowing them free roaming privileges is the exercise and interactive capability. A good place to start if you are interested in this is Melissa Kaplan's article on free roaming at:
    http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/basking.html

    Supplies you need before hand include:
    --Enclosure (obviously)
    --Hydrometer
    --Spray bottle
    --Heat and UVB lighting; I'll go into detail on this in a moment
    --3 thermometers; at least one of which is a digital thermometer with probe (or you can use a temp gun); don't use round/gauge type thermometers
    --Substrate; good choices are sterile, untreated potting soil, "bed a beast," "eco earth," or similar product, coconut fiber, or peat/sphagnum moss; avoid soil mixes with large bark pieces or fibrous material
    --Climbing structures and basking spot
    --Large water dish
    --Food dish
    --Calcium supplement

    Details on lighting: There are two ways you can go about providing heat and UVB. The first option is to use a mercury vapor bulb (MVB) which produces both heat and UVB in one. You have to follow the instructions for safe distances precisely in order to use them safely. These are expensive bulbs, but they have a high UVB output and only need replaced annually. Good brands are MegaRay and ZooMed's PowerSun. The other option you have is to use two separate bulbs, one for heat and one for UVB. The heat bulb can be any incandescent bulb that can get the correct temperatures in your setup. The UVB bulb needs to be a tube florescent bulb. These produce UVB, but not heat. They are less expensive than MVBs, but need replaced more often--every 6 months. ZooMed's ReptiSun and ExoTerra's ReptiGlo are good brands. Important: NEVER use a compact/coiled UVB bulb!!! These deteriorate very quickly and have also been known to cause skin and eye damage to reptiles.

    Picking up food from the grocery is the best thing to do. Pelleted food is really just a marketing gimmick; don't buy into it. I noticed you mentioned getting spinach. Not trying to be a nag or anything, but spinach is not a good choice to feed your iguana regularly. It is high in oxalates, which bind to calcium and prevent the body from being able to absorb it properly. Too many high oxalates foods can cause a reptile to become calcium deficient and develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). There are many staple greens to choose from, though. Good choices are collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, endive, and escarole. I'll attach some feeding links below for you to refer to.

    Great feeding chart for igs:
    http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm

    Corresponding page about feeding regimen:
    http://www.greenigsociety.org/feedingigs.htm

    I don't have any experience socializing iguanas, but I know that it takes consistency and dedication. You should interact with and handle your iguana every day for at least an hour or so. Getting the kids involved at an early age will be beneficial for both the lizard and the children. Obviously supervise any child-iguana interaction and use good judgement. A lot of iguanas go through a temperamental phase, and it may not be a good idea to allow your children to interact with yours if/when that happens. A whip of the tail can mean a nasty lash for you, and claws and teeth can obviously do damage of their own. Again, use your judgement with the kids, ALWAYS supervise, and handle your iggy daily.

    There are tons of things to know about iguanas and I feel like I really can't fit them all here. http://anapsid.org is a great resource for everything from feeding to health issues to socialization, so I'd recommend starting there. The library is also a good place to check out books on iguana care. And, of course, we are always here to answer your questions should you have any more. If I was unclear on something or I left anything out, just let me know and I'll get you an answer. :D

    Iguanas are not cheap or easy pets, so make sure you do plenty of research before getting one. Especially since this is your first reptile, you really don't want to rush into anything. Iguanas are not exactly beginner herps. Just fully prepare yourself for what's in store. :)
     
    StikyPaws312 likes this.
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. rayban

    rayban Embryo

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    thanks for the reponse! been doing some furthar research and reading (alot of web pages and books) and ove learned alot. the biggest concern for me is the agressivness combined with the downright nasty weapons igs have. (claws and teeth) the injurys these can create are horrifying, and while i can deal with this on my own, i really dont want to have a mauled child. agressive pets with dangerous features and kids generally dont work too well, and itn the end both pay prices they shouldnt have to. after much thought and discussion and research i think we will be going for a water dragon instead. should be much safer and better for kids interaction so they learn the "reptile ropes" and also less risk of serious injury. any tips or suggestions you have for water dragons would be much apreciated.
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. Ameivaboy

    Ameivaboy New Member

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    If you want a large handlable lizard you might want to look into argentine or red tegus - you'll be much happier with one of those vs an iguana in the long run (plus they are much more intelligent than iguanas)
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. Cammy

    Cammy ReptileBoards Addict

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    Weeellll..........water dragons are really no more kid-friendly than iguanas. They both have the same possibility of going through a temperamental phase and using teeth, claws, and tails as weapons when irritated. They're very similar in temperament in that they can be testy and require a lot of handling to curb aggression. Anyway, your kids won't be any more or less safe with a water dragon than they would with an iguana. Don't get me wrong; I'm not trying to paint a picture where iggies and WDs are vicious, nasty creatures. That's not what I mean to imply. I'm just saying they both can take a lot of effort to keep tame and both can cause serious damage if they want to.

    In response to Ameivaboy's suggestion you look into the Argentine tegus, I have to say, again, these should not be considered beginner reptiles. While Argentines are probably the most docile tegus, they are still large, demanding lizards that I would personally only suggest to more experienced keepers. They have a tendency to become food aggressive and can still cause damage (even if accidentally) simply because of their size. Ameivaboy is correct, though, they are very intelligent lizards, and he was right to suggest the Argentines above other tegus as they are typically the tamest of the bunch.

    I'm not saying don't ever get any of these lizards. I just want you to be prepared for whichever pet you choose. Be aware that with any large reptile, there will always be a chance that your children could get hurt. Then again, even a Labrador could do damage to a small child. You just have to supervise children with animals and use your common sense. I probably sound like a broken record at this point, but I can't emphasize these things enough.

    By the way, I know you're wanting a larger lizard, but can I suggest something more mid-sized? A bearded dragon would honestly be perfect for your situation. They are good beginner lizards, are the interactive pet you are looking for, and best of all are EXCELLENT with children. Mine explores the house, watches tv and snuggles with me, and has a leash so I can take him outside. He sits out in the sunshine while I read on the deck, and I even take him for rides on my shoulder when I go for walks. He lets my 10 month old and 2 year old cousins poke and prod him without protest. The 2 year old often lines up his toys around him or pushes little race-cars in front of him and Loki just watches him. He even puts up with my cousin putting stacking cups on his head. He will take treats right out of the toddler's hand, too. And all of this is not unusual for a beardie. They're great family pets and I hope you will at least consider one. You could always start out with a beardie and get a larger, more challenging lizard in just a few years' time. That would give both you and your kids time to get used to dealing with a reptile, and would give your kids some time to grow and hopefully be more prepared for dealing with a large lizard. I'll shut up now, but I hope you'll at least think about this option. :)
     
    ladybriann likes this.

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