Python still not eating...

Discussion in 'Other Pythons' started by Janice, Dec 28, 2004.

  1. shrap

    shrap ReptileBoards Addict

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    Yes exactly!!! It is "The Dead Rodent Puppet Show", as my daughter calls it.

    You can dangle it, make it do push ups, scurry around, play Mighty Mouse and make him fly. That is the best part of "The Dead Rodent Puppet Show"!!!

    All I am saying is use your imagination. Find whatever movements sparks a feeding response in your snake. And be patient, do it for 15 minutes if need be.

    Also, try bumping up his temps a little. Say 93 on the warm side and 84 on the cool 24/7 for a few days. Then try and feed him. A warm snake is a hungry snake.
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    I agree about the microwave. I tried to do that a couple different times just to get the rat started in thawing. I probably put it in there for about 7 seconds and most of the rat was still cold to the touch except this one area that was really, really warm. I think it just cooks certain parts while other parts don't get hardly warmed up at all. I've also heard they can somewhat explode and I just would rather not even think of how much fun that would be to clean up :D .

    Yes snakes smell with their tongues, so to speak. They "taste" the air using their tongue and the jocobson's organ in the roof of their mouth. The tongue gathers the molecules from the air and the jacobson's organ intereprates those molecules.

    A good practice is to always use tongs or forceps to feed your snakes. That is unless you want to expereince what a feeding response strike feels like on your hand. I usually hold the tail of the rat by the tongs and wiggle it a bit near the snake. If it looks like he's moving towards it I don't get the rat any closer so as not to scare the snake I just keep wiggling it and maybe move it left to right a little bit so there is some movement. Once my snakes strike a rat I continue to hold on to it with the tongs and shake it just a little for a few seconds. I like my snakes to get a good solid squeeze and if it thinks it's still alive it will squeeze harder. I don't know, I guess I feel like it's good for them somehow.
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. Janice

    Janice ReptileBoards Addict

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    Thanks guys, I will try that after the kids go to bed. You have given me some great suggestions.
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. Janice

    Janice ReptileBoards Addict

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    No luck last night. My husband tried for 20 minutes "playing with the dead rat". We heated it really well. It was like the snake was afraid of it. Then we heated it up again, 'brained' the thing, and put it in with the snake, closed the lid, and left it for about 45 minutes. Nothing. I guess all we can do is try again in a couple of days.
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    FYI, I'd let go for at least a week before trying again. Sometimes the stress of trying to get them to eat can cause them not to eat. :mrgreen:

    When my ball goes off feed for the season I try about every three weeks until he starts eating again then I go back to a week to 10 days. This cuts back on wasted rodents and lessens the frequency of frustration on my part!! Actually I don't get that frustrated any more about him not eating. It's just what he feels like doing during the winter I guess.
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. Janice

    Janice ReptileBoards Addict

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    Okay, wait a week, gotcha. I don't know how old he is, but I know he isn't very big, is he going to survive this???
     
  12. biochic

    biochic Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I agree. Trying to entice him to eat is just as stressful as force-feeding to some snakes. And they eventually become too afraid to try to eat the prey.

    And shrap...as long as you don't dress them up...LOL!!!
     
  13. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    He should survive this if he isn't sick. My ball wasn't even a year old and he went off feed for 5 months and lost about 4 percent of his body weight. In fact for the first couple months he continued to actually gain weight. Keep an eye on his weight and that's a good indication as to how well he's handling his anorexic behavior.
     
  14. Janice

    Janice ReptileBoards Addict

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    Is there anything I can do to make him happier???? What kind of substrate do they like best/best for them? And what kind of hide do you use?
     
  15. shrap

    shrap ReptileBoards Addict

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    Newspaper and Aspen are my two favorites, although there are other good choices. As far as hides, they like small hides that they fit in snugly. Low roof and able to feel the hide on all sides of their body. If they can barely fit inside the hide and still be completely concealed they are happy.
     
  16. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    I use aspen for substrate and my ball seems to be happy with that. For the hide I pick something as small as I can find that he can fit into. They like to be crammed into their hides and be touching all sides of the hide. Makes them feel more secure.

    Most of the hides I make myself. An easy one is to find the base of a terracotta flower pot your snake will fit into, knock a chunk out of the lip with a hammer and turn it upside down onto the substrate. After you knock the chunk out take an emery board or some sort of file that you can grind the edges down where the chunk came from. Those edges can be razor sharp and you just want to dull them up a bit.

    Another thing I've used is a small cardboard box I cut a notch out of. I've also had a hide that is too big but have filled most of it with Aspen and the snake makes his own snug spot in it. Just think of it like being wrapped up like a baby all snug and secure.

    Also, make sure you have a hide on the cooler end as well as the warm end so he doesn't have to choose security over temperature. If you've got room for one in the middle go for it.

    If you give him water, the right temps, good snug hides and don't disturb him for a couple of weeks he will be a happy ball. The big thing is patience. I know when I first got my ball I was all excited about handling him and watching him, etc. After about 2 weeks of making sure I didn't disturb my ball and basically never seeing him I started becoming anxious but I waited another week anyway because that's what was suggested. After the 3rd week I tried to feed him and he wouldn't eat. Now I was at the point where if he wouldn't eat I was supposed to leave him alone for about a week then try again. I tried again a week later and no go. The next week he finally ate and I could tell by his behavior he was becoming more acclimated to his new home. We're talking 6 weeks before he became somewhat comfortable.

    You will most likely be able to see when he really becomes comfortable just by his behavior but let me tell you when you think you see that change, wait a week and you'll see it even more. After another week you'll see even more changes. It just takes lots and lots of time and a healthy environment and eventually you'll have this unsure, nervous feeling go a way and be able to tell you have a happy snake.

    I totally sympathize with you on this. I know that it is very difficult when you want everything perfect for him but are so new to all of this you just don't know if it is or not. And relying on the snake to tell you is pretty much hit and miss. All of this really brings back the memories of long nights of worrying and wondering if my snake is perfectly happy or not. Trust me, it gets better with experience!!!!
     
  17. Janice

    Janice ReptileBoards Addict

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    Thanks you guys!!!!! You've given me some wonderful suggestions, and I feel so better....I think maybe the hide is a bit big, so we will rectify that tonight.
     
  18. TommyD.

    TommyD. New Member

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    I many balls and I either have to feed them live supervised or f/k. Many people are against live but I have never had any bites on any of mine. Some of mine will eat f/t but not real regular. I have to use f/k and so will only eat live. Just never leave it over night or unsupervised. Also balls are nocturnal animals I would try feeding at night. If it has never ate then I wouldn't advise any handling untill it does eat handling on a new snake in a new enviroment is stressful. I would also try smaller prey items balls are picky eaters and will ofter scare with larger prey. I have 4 that was eating small rats this fall and the only thing they will eat now is mice you just have to try different prey items. Also if you have it in a high traffic area I would move it some where more quite. This is also hard on new snakes. Ask the old owner what they where feeding. Also provide a hide for them for security. The brains exposed works sometimes but hasn't worked much with me. Does it show any signs of shedding? Also if it is an adult this is the breeding season and they go off food alot this time of year. They have been know to go months and even years without feeding in some cases. I would try at least once a day feeding, also long as the snake doesn't get to thin. I wouldn't result to force feeding untill all else fails as this will make them go off food and you may have to force feed it from now on. I would also feed in it's cage and move as little as possible so it doesn't scare. But with problem feeders I always try live to get them started. Hope everthing goes good and this helps.
     
  19. Ryeshu

    Ryeshu New Member

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    It's nice to see that someone is as worryed as i am. i recently got a full grown Ball python and she hasn't eaten for me yet. I'm not sure what her owner before me fed her but i've been trying live prey. Small mice, big mice, small rats, medium rats, she wont take any food i give to her. Most people are telling me it's just the cold months and most snakes stop eating at this time of year but i'm sure sure if i should be worrying as well.
     
  20. TommyD.

    TommyD. New Member

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    Rye
    Is your snake Captive Breed or Wild Caught? Alot of WC Balls will refuse to eat no matter what you try they just refuse to eat. If you can get a full grown WC to eat then you have done something. Alot of scams are out their with ball pythons babies and adult WC some of them they sell them off as hets with no paper or just regular balls but when you have problems with them or they don't turn out you can't get intouch with them. That's why I recommend if anyone buys balls from anyone it should be well know breeders and snakes that come with lugit paper work. But as far as adults go they are more likely to go off feed mormons this time of year are really kicking. But good luck with the feeding I would call or get intouch and ask the old owner what he was feeding and how often.
     
  21. Ryeshu

    Ryeshu New Member

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    I tried but there is no finding her. Umm im pretty sure she is CB because i got her from the pet store...Someone told me to put fish in the water dish and she would swallow them. 0_O
     
  22. TommyD.

    TommyD. New Member

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    I have never heard of anyone feeding fish to a ball python. Also just because you got it at a pet store doesn't mean it is CB. Alot of pet stores buy WC in bulk at a cheap price and then in return sale them for a large profit. Your snake may also be infested with parasites that will also make your snake weak and refuse food. Pet stores are also know to be highly infested with parasites cause of not proper clean and medical treatment. Most pet stores are just worried about a profit not the well being of the animal. I would suggest getting a fecal sample to the vet and have it checked for parasites. It is better if it is a exotic vet that have the extra training for reptiles also it is better if the fecal is less then 24hrs old. Hope this helps out and good luck with the feeding.
     
  23. Ryeshu

    Ryeshu New Member

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    Vets are so expensive >< but ill do as you said to make sure she is alright. Thank you. My baby is more important so ill make an impointment
     
  24. TommyD.

    TommyD. New Member

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    You don't have to take the snake in but it's a good idea. You could just take in the fecal sample and have it checked and it will save you money then taking the snake in for a check up which about all they will do is fecal exam and sex it then charge you a $100.00. Or you can take it in yourself and they will charge you around $30.00. Or that's what they charge me you can call and ask how much it would be just for the fecal exam. You can also self medacate but you will need to know what you are doing or you can kill your snake of an over dose. You can get the supplies at the Bean Farm. Most parasites are taken care of with panacur cream the same thing used in horses you will need to know the weight and the break down of the med. which is on Mellisa Kaplans website. But you should know what your doing before any self medcating is done. I use to take all of my snakes to my vet and if I have any bad problems I still do thats the best thing to do. But you learn as you go :wink:
     
  25. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    I think the only thing you're going to accomplish there is a stressed out snake that won't feed unless you resort to something foolish like trying a live rodent. If the snake isn't getting thin at all leave it alone and let it fast if it wants to. If it starts losing a lot of weight this is a different story and there's some other factors you need to look at with your husbandry or the snakes health.

    If you have a loose substrate in your cage you do not want to feed it in there as you may have problems with impaction or pieces of the substrate getting caught in the snake's mouth. If you end up trying live with a problem feeder make sure it's only after your snake begins to lose a decent amount of weight. Otherwise you've now got a snake that was just taking a break from eating and is now hooked on live rodents because he just couldn't resist at the time.

    The thing to remember here is that a lot of balls go off feed because they darn well feel like it. If your ball isn't eating but isn't losing much weight then let it not eat. Trying to feed it every day is also not going to help matters in the least bit. It causes stress and makes you use up a lot of f/t rodents. Try about every 2-3 weeks if your snake isn't losing any weight. If he's healthy, when he's hungry he'll eat - just realize and deal with it.

    FYI, my snake was about 6 months old and stopped eating last year from October until March. He lost about 3% of his body weight. This year, so far, he's not eaten since late November and hasn't lost any weight at all. I try and feed once about every 3 weeks and I don't use anything but f/t rodents.
     

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