Question regarding substrate.

Discussion in 'Anoles' started by JoseOnAStick, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. JoseOnAStick

    JoseOnAStick New Member

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    I understand bark-like subs aren't ideal because they can swallow it if it's small enough, but with live plants, you need to appropriately layer multiple substrata for a proper planting environment in the enclosure. If I can at all have plants in a rep tank and not have them smashed (i.e.- bearded dragons would just eat them), then I refuse to have fake ones as that is a waste of room for humidity-producing furniture. Since I got into smaller sized lizards, I've been using first and always this stuff called ABG mix. Here is a link, I use the mix outlined by "roxrgneiss": http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/beginner-discussion/38881-abg-mix-recipe.html

    For any of you who are unfamiliar with this, any plant you put in this mix goes absolutely nuts; I had bought rather poor looking plants with hardly a root bulb, as an experiment, and in a week I had to be careful of transplanting it because though the root growth was fragile, it was there and QUITE fibrous. Orchids are a rather unique plant type as they need lots of oxygen to get at the roots, as well as the roots to remain moist, hence soaking the wood chips they're commonly planted in for a length of time; with this stuff, you dump a bit of water and whatnot into it, the oxygen gets to the roots AND the moss holds the moisture without even having to soak the substrate - easy jewel AND full-size orchid maintenance. I even put my other house plants in it, and keep a nice big tote full of premixed ABG readily on hand for when I repot anything. Even microfauna gets stupid in it, which, granted, is a double edged sword. I mean, in regard to simply maintaining the plants (which in some cases can be a bit of a trick depending on the plant, such as mosses), it is the go-to, end-all substrate mix.

    Now for the big question, which might sound redundant given my experience with it thus far, but always better safe than sorry in my book. Would anyone experienced with this particular type of substrate tell me if the benefit outweighs the hazards IN REGARD TO REPTILES in the long run, or if it's vice-versa? I haven't had issues yet, but at the same time, I'm far from naive to fact that mishaps are possible. And to be honest, owning these couple of anoles (albeit one at a time) has been practice at keeping planted enclosures for when I am finally ready for the v. macraei that I so desperately crave. Though I certainly don't just pass off the anoles as being "just anoles," THAT is one lizard I want to have my P's and Q's lined up correctly for.
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. lizardgurl87

    lizardgurl87 HOTM Winner April

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    From what the mixture is made of, I wouldn't think it would do any harm to your anoles :) I always used to just use some bark with some moss and soil mixed in. I wish I would've known of that for plants to thrive in though! I had tried some pothos plants in my terrarium, but they didn't do so well haha

    The only possible concern I could think of might be some small particles getting in an eye or being swallowed? But, I wouldn't worry about it too much, since they're arboreal and they wouldn't be on the ground much anyways. It's just that, my anole did have an eye infection before that eventually did clear up, but I believe he did have something lodged in his eye and it was difficult to deal with. I wouldn't want that to happen to yours!
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    I think the mix looks fine as well - I'm an advocate for planted, naturalistic vivaria. Just be sure to supervise feedings to ensure they aren't inhaling substrate with every insect by accident.

    If it would make you feel more comfortable, you could try bowl feeding. Crickets cannot climb up the smooth surface of a glass custard cup or deep ashtray and typically they only jump when provoked. Some keepers opt to feed from a cup or bowl so that the herp can feed without fear of ingesting substrate.
     
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  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. JoseOnAStick

    JoseOnAStick New Member

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    Ya, I have a large thriving Pothos in that tank, as well as a lump of moss and a couple of others with big names that I can't pronounce. I was worried about the swallowing during feeding or the getting something caught in the eye, so I actually did go to bowl feeding. I feed him primarily Dubia nymphs out of my breeder bin (my roommate has a beardie, so the bin is kinda 'ours") - I mean the very tiny ones that just pop out, maybe a few days old - and turns out, they can't climb a glazed ceramic bowl. Also, the moths that I feed him occasionally are always either on the big cork round in there, or the brick, or in one of the plants munching away when he bags them. I figured just best check with others who may have experience.
     
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  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. JoseOnAStick

    JoseOnAStick New Member

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    In regard to bowls if you also feed small lizards Dubia specifically (no experience with any other roaches, sorry), I line the breeder and feeder bins' inner top of the walls with packing tape. Even the babies' leg filaments are too large to catch on the smoothness of the tape. Maybe the same would work for lining the tops of feeding dishes...? Nothing to try that with here, so if anyone tries, leme know :D
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    Are you sure you have B. dubia? They shouldn't be able to climb any smooth surfaces; although newborn nymphs can climb up the walls of some plastic bins that have even the slightest texture. If you are having to use packaging tape to keep your roaches in your main bins its probably more of a bin-type issue than the roaches' capability of climbing. Some of the more rugged style plastic bins have the slightest texture to them that is barely tangible to us, but the smallest of nymphs can still get a grip... But no need to invest in a new set of bins if you can keep them down with packing tape, teflon, or vaseline around the top edge.

    As for the feeding bowl - packing tape around the top edge should be unnecessary if using a glass or ceramic dish; but should be fine to employ if you are having issues with escapees. I would just be sure to keep a close eye on the tape to ensure it isn't coming loose or expose where the lizard could catch itself on some of the adhesive.

    I've heard you can also paint a thin layer of olive oil around the top of the feeding dish which should be too slippery for even climbing species that can readily move up glass (i.e. lobster roaches, hissers), and is safe if the lizard accidentally comes into contact with it = )
     
  12. JoseOnAStick

    JoseOnAStick New Member

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    Yes, B. dubia. The filaments on the newborns' legs are fine enough to grip most plastic bins' walls, which is the case in point here. No, I don't have adults climbing them. The packing tape is only for the newborn nymphs. Also, I have a ceramic dish, but it isn't completely smooth though glazed; for some reason they're able to escape though only once in a while. And yes, the adhesive is being scrutinized in case it were to catch Jose.
     
  13. JoseOnAStick

    JoseOnAStick New Member

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    I tried that olive oil for the occasional escapee, and it works very well. It's also much easier to clean between feedings, as the tape still caught some of the little bit of slass that would build up in the bowl over the couple hours I'd have it in there for feeding. Not much more on the bill either as I stay well stocked of olive oil for cooking. :D
     
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