Substrates for Ball Pythons

Discussion in 'Ball Pythons' started by hrpuffnstuf, Jan 17, 2005.

  1. hrpuffnstuf

    hrpuffnstuf Embryo

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    4
    :? Hello All,

    First post so bear with me. I've got a BP 2 1/2 years old that is healthy and strong. Just moved her into a 40g breeder tank and I am at a loss as to what
    to use for substrate. They don't seem to make Repti-Carpet for this size tank
    from what i can find on the net and local shops. Is there any other type 'carpet' anyone could recommend? I've been using Aspen shavings but the vet I saw today for retained eye caps says not to use them. As is that isn't enough I am now having trouble getting her to eat. It is obviously winter ...could this be normal.

    Thanks for any help u can give
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. Trigunfan

    Trigunfan New Member

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    really all reptile carpet is astroturf.You can probly get it at hardware stores like The Home Depo or Lowes in big sizes and cut the sizes out for your tank
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. jambooti

    jambooti New Member

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    Reptile carpet and astroturf are NOT the same thing. Astroturf is a bristly plastic material similar to what indoor football stadiums used in the past and what extremely cheap doormats are made of (only a shallower depth).

    Personally Repti-bark is my favorite substrate.
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. Ryeshu

    Ryeshu New Member

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    I agree with Jambooti, Repti-bark is a wonderful substrate that holds heat and humity very well. Its easy to clean and move around for your snakes. Though, my pythons enjoy diging it it gave me quite the scare when i couldnt find her and she blended in under the bark.
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. stormyva

    stormyva Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to Reptile Rooms!

    Newspaper, papertowels, or my favorite Cypress Mulch. Cypress is about $4 a bag at Home Depot or Lowes.
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. shrap

    shrap ReptileBoards Addict

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    As far as your eating problem, many snakes need an adjustment period when they are given a new home. They need time to start feeling safe and secure. Usually a week or two....sometimes longer depending on the snake. How long has your snake been in its new home?

    My advice would be to make 100% sure his temps are correct, 92-94 on the warm side and 80-84 on the cool, that he has proper hides and then to just leave him completely alone for at least a week. Do not even open his cage except to check temps, change water, clean poo, etc. If all of your environmental issues are correct (temps, humidity, hides, water, etc) and he is given a week or two of total peace and quiet he should be back to normal very quickly and happily eating again.
     
  12. tjhallock

    tjhallock Member

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    518
    I prefer Repti-Bark for BP's
     
  13. hrpuffnstuf

    hrpuffnstuf Embryo

    Messages:
    4
    repti-bark when using under tank heating pad?

    Hi All,
    First let me thank you all for your responses.

    Repti-bark sounds like the fav for BP's and anything that can help me get the humidity up is welcome! From what I have read it is good for that. Do any of you happen to use this substrate along with an undertank heating pad? My BP likes to burrow and twice I have found her sitting directly on top of where the heating pad is with the shavings pushed aside. I'm not really concerned about this behavior since I think she'll move if she gets hot...am I wrong? Are there mold concerns with Reptibark?

    In regards to my feeding problem this is 2nd feeding in a row I can't get her to eat a full meal. She's 3+ ft long and has eaten as many as 8 white mice in one sitting. 3 wks ago I was only able to get her to take 4.....yesterday I only could get her to take 1??? Is this formal for Oct. through March for a BP of this size? :roll:

    Thanks again!
     
  14. stormyva

    stormyva Well-Known Member

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    I didnt notice the name earlier... hrpuffandstuf rocks! That was my favorite show as a kid!

    The best thing with the heat pad is to allow a 1/2" space between the cage and the pad for airflow. To be safe you could put the probe from the digital thermometer on the substrate to track the temps there.
    Not feeding for that amount of time is not bad but if you follow Shraps instructions you should be right on track getting it to eat. One thing you will need to do is reduce the amount of prey items you are offering... one prey item that is equal to the thickest part of the snake is ideal. Two items in a "pinch" but one is always the best.
     

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