Whites Tree frog

Discussion in 'Treefrogs' started by Gonzo1961, Sep 2, 2005.

  1. Gonzo1961

    Gonzo1961 Member

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    Do Whites Tree Frogs need any kind of night light? (Nocturnal red light)
    Gonzo
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. biochic

    biochic Well-Known Member

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    Only if you need extra heating. If the temps are going below 70-75 degrees at night, then you could use it for heating at night. Otherwise, no, they don't need special light at night.
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. Gonzo1961

    Gonzo1961 Member

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    They seem to eat better with the light but am I causing them more stress than nessesary? The temps have dropping to about 72-75 at night.
    Gonzo
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. biochic

    biochic Well-Known Member

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    The red infrared heat bulbs should not stress them at all. They are specifically made to not disturb circadian rhythms. White's are nocturnal for the most part, so they need the heat at night. But a mid-70's range should be fine. If they are eating, then that's a great sign.
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. Gonzo1961

    Gonzo1961 Member

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    I am not using the Red Infrared bulb, its an Exo-Terra night light. Almost light a black light it makes anything white or light coloured glow ( slightly, not like a real black lite) Would the infrared bulb not heat the tank too much during the evening? I thought they enjoyed the somewhat cooler temps at night? but like I said they seem to eat better with it on. Also do you monitor the humidity in your tank? If so what would be an ideal reading for both day and night, if there is a difference?
    Gonzo
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. biochic

    biochic Well-Known Member

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    Either light should prvide some heat but the infra-red would heat more. There are red bulbs out there that are not infrared. Neither the red, blue, or black bulbs should interfere with the frogs' natural behavior. The night temps should be at least about 70 degrees Farenheit. No lower than that though.
    We do monitor the humidity. It should be a fairly study level around 70% or so. If it fluxuates some, that fine. As long as the substrate is damp (not wet), there's a large open dish of clean water available always, and the general humidity stays above 60%, then you shouldn't have to worry. Too much moisture is just as bad as not enough when it comes to amphibian skin.
     

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