New Savannah Monitor

Discussion in 'Monitors & Tegus' started by Reptikeeps101, Mar 11, 2007.

  1. Reptikeeps101

    Reptikeeps101 New Member

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    149
    Hi, I just got a new Savannah Monitor and i wanted to know what should i get him to last a while. I don't want to get fancy with anything though. These are pictures of Spike:
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    P.S. I already have turf,heating rock,water bowl hiding place and a regular rock.
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. FlyingMonkeySith

    FlyingMonkeySith Member

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    well i think some dirt would be good. they like to dig and thats not something thats too fancy or exspensive!
    nice looking sav by the way! i like his dark coloring and nice white spots! i was going to get one of those, but then i had a nile monitor put into my care. oh well. take good care of him!
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. Chi_Monitors1317

    Chi_Monitors1317 New Member

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    hello i had a savannah before this is what i would do if i were you first of all take the heat rock out they have hot spots and you will burn the little guy. your best bet would be to start him off in a 40-55 gallon tank if your not looking to spend much go to www.glasscages.com they have great prices for tanks i just ordered a 240 gallon for my water monitor. You should use something that he/she can burrow in that holds moisture such as cypress mulch or jungle earth you shold be able to find this at a local pet store mist him daily. also i wouldnt dig up dirt fom your back yard just because it has all types of larva in it provide him with a hide spot. check out my post it is water not growing? i have some pics of my water and my old enclosure. here is some info on your monitoir. Common Name: Savannah Monitor

    Latin name: Varanus exanthematicus


    Native to: The savannah monitor can be foSub-Saharan Africa, from Senegal to Sudan. Found north of the Congo river.und in Lives in tropical savannahs with seasonal drenching monsoons punctuating extended periods of parched weather.

    Size: Savannah Monitors typically 2.5 to 4 feet, although rare 5 foot specimens are known.

    Life span: 10 to 15 years if given proper care.

    General appearance: The savannah monitor is a stocky monitor with a blocky head, equipped with large, powerful limbs and large talons. The neck and tail are short for a monitor, but still long compared to many lizards. It is colored shades of brown and grey, typically with faint pale spots on its back, darker bands across its tail, and a white underside. Enlarged scales on its neck give it a pebbly appearance. A long, forked, purple tongue is used by the lizard to smell its environment.

    Housing requirements:

    Enclosure: Adult savannah monitors will need a set-up about the size of a dinner table or large sofa. Plan on 4 feet by 8 feet of floor space. A design that works well uses a galvanized steel stock watering tank as the base with a plywood box of 8 feet long by 4 feet deep by 4 feet tall set on top. The stock tank holds the deep substrate, the box allows room to move around above the ground. Limit ventilation, especially on the hot side of the cage, to prevent turning your enclosure into a dehydration machine. Avoid using wire mesh of any kind, instead use glass or plexiglass to maintain adequate humidity. Young savannah monitors can be maintained in aquaria of appropriate sizes with a basking light set overhead and a sheet of plexiglass over the top to limit moisture loss.

    Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 75° and 80° F, with temperatures increasing to 90° to 100° F on the hot end with basking spots as large as the savannah monitor's body that reach 110° to 130° F. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature.

    Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided for this monitor by radiant light. Racks of flood lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at 60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such as "pig blankets." The savannah monitor should be able to rest its entire body on the mat. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.

    Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the savannah monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created equal. Go to a nursery or landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a burrow and humidity, drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime when wet. Fill the savannah monitor's cage to a depth of two feet.

    Environment: Be careful not to let your savannah monitor get too dry. Aim for humid-tropical air without making the cage wet. Savannah monitors become inactive in the dry season; a dry cage coupled with readily available food will lead to obesity and health problems. Logs and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise and entertainment. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing water. Live plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor.

    Diet: Insects can make up the bulk of the savannah monitor's diet, supplemented by an occasional rodent. Lightly dust insects with a reptile vitamin and mineral powder. Large cockroaches, such as Madagascar hissing roaches, are especially relished. If you can collect snails and earthworms from pesticide free areas, add these to your savvanh monitor's diet to round it out. A diet based largely on rodents may also be used, but it is unknown if this will cause health problems in the long term (wild savannah monitors eat almost entirely invertebrates). Feed whole food items whenever possible, avoid canned foods, cuts of meat, and cat or dog foods. Multiple small food items are preferable to one large meal. Feed daily. Savannah monitors are prone to obesity, feed juvenile monitors as much as they will eat but adjust the diet of adults as needed. Fasts, possibly lasting several months, may be useful for controlling weight.

    Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. Chi_Monitors1317

    Chi_Monitors1317 New Member

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    by the way he/she looks awsome great pattern and bright in color looks healthy good choice.
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. PitsNherps

    PitsNherps Well-Known Member

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    He is so cute!BTW like Chi said take out the heat rock!Get a heat lamp!
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. papercut

    papercut Member

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    awesome little guy and just like everyone else I'd advise you to take out the heat rock or unplug it so it doesn't burn your monitor
     
  12. Reptikeeps101

    Reptikeeps101 New Member

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    other than a heat rock or a light. i have a flourescent light above him so can i just put a mat underhim?
     
  13. PitsNherps

    PitsNherps Well-Known Member

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    Well I would reccomend unplugging his heat rock and put it under his basking light hand buying a 100 watt basking bulb or a red heat light.
    Savs love to bask and a heat mat is just tummy heat.
     
  14. Kathy_and_Bert

    Kathy_and_Bert New Member

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    they love climbing on rocks when someone gives me a heat rock i just cut the cord off of it they clean up beautifully btw hes beautiful!!
     
  15. lllxtclll

    lllxtclll New Member

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    Aww, I remember when mine was that lil. Such a cutie!
     
  16. spazzmitazz88

    spazzmitazz88 New Member

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    Re: RE: New Savannah Monitor



    relly i heard hatchlings should be started in a 20 gallon because anything larger can stress them out but i dont have any experiance with monitors
     

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