What wattage bulb are you using? How far away is it from the floor of the cage? Most likely you do not need the red light, particularly since you have a heat pad too. I don't use any heat at night. I know I'm in Florida and you're in VA but its June so I wouldn't think its cold up there now, is it? As for the music, as jeep said, they're sensitive to vibrations so yea, it can stress them out.
Warm him/her up the the specified ranges, leave the snake alone for a good week to a week and a half, no handling, no playing loud music, keep the area quiet. Feed the snake after that week-week1/2 is up, when it is starting to get dark outside. If you can't ge your temps up, get some flexwatt and a good thermostat(not an Alife or Big Apple Herp piece of doody- get a Johnson's or a Herpstat), and set the temps to where they need to be. That way you won't have to worry about it and the snake will be all the better. There is no reason to take the snake out of its home to feed it. They are much more comfortable and more likely to eat if they are fed in their home. There is no proof that snakes will only associate you getting into their tank as feeding time. It is just ridiculous. If you ONLY open the tank to feed the snake, there is something wrong. Pretty much everyday you should be in there filling waterbowls, cleaning up feces/urates/sheds, handling the snake, etc. Just feed the snake in the enclosure and be done with it. Also, try a live rodent such as a fuzzy rat, a rat pup or two small adult mice. That is probably what it was eating before you acquired it, and it will take a little bit of time to switch it over to p/k, f/t or whatever you decide to feed. Offer the rodent for about 15 minutes, if the snake isn't going to eat in that amount of time, it won't eat at all. Just wait another week and offer another rodent. Wait until the snake successfully eats two or three times before beginning short handling sessions. Short meaning 5-10 minutes 2-4 times per week, depending on how the snake is reacting. Hope this has cleared a few things up for you. But be sure to get those temps up regardless of how you have to accomplish it. Covering three sides of the tank with cardboard will help hold in heat, and covering part of the screen lid with SaranWrap, ConTac paper or Glad Press N' Seal(with room for the lamp) will help hold in heat and humidity.
if it isnt one thing its another. i got a stronger light and the temps are fine now, but the humidity drops to 40. how do I keep the humidity up?
Easiest/cheapest way is misting. A spray bottle with warm water, set to spray in as fine a mist as possible. You can also increase the size of the water bowl. I doubt the humidity is keeping him from eating, particularly since its a new thing.
wreckwriter, I think probably 2 weeks is better.kwali, what is your tank top? If it is a mesh top, try covering half of it, or even 3/4. This should help with heat and humidity.
Its been 3 weeks and my ball still will not eat. I am trying to feed frozen/thawed fuzzies. any suggestions?
Feeding live is definately not recommended. Once you get him eating, you can try fresh killed prey, and then eventually go to freshly thawed. Even freshly killed prey, there isn't the risk.
The rodent can bite your animal and do some really heavy damage. Also there is a slight risk to pass on parasites the rodent may have.
